Sunday, August 31, 2008

Expose of the underbelly

Was uploading my photos when I remembered a funny thing about the bridges on the River Seine. Some of them are stuffed with rags underneath! I don't know why, but think it'll make for a good story. Dickens has written a lot about the river life on the river Thames - maybe it's time someone else did the same for the River Seine? Hm....

Saturday, August 30, 2008

Boating through Paris

Did the grand tour of Paris on a boat today: the "bateau mouche" (literally "boat wipes" in French), courtesy of my school's student committee. It was marvellous! Definitely an experience to be recommended to those who come to Paris.

Initially, though, I was a little disappointed. Had thought that we were going to Paris by chartered bus, and so started being Ms Grouch when we were led to the train station. Did my accounts last night, and discovered that I had overspent by a hundred euros, mostly because of my new boots and having to settle in. Had decided to tighten my belt for the next few weeks to make up for this, and so didn't appreciate having to fork out a 9.90 euro return ticket to Paris from my already-slim funds.
The journey was quite long, over an hour, so I guess it was a pretty fair price to pay. Unfortunately, the train was really crowded, so we couldn't get a seat. Had to stand all the way to the Franklin D Roosevelt Station even after we changed trains at Chatre Havernay.


Next, we were brought on a walking tour of Paris (or what felt like it, only without the tour guide blaring out names and synopses of the buildings we passed by). Took tons of photos along the way, all the while feeling smug about my good sense in wearing flats (aka slippers) for the tour.

It was a really hot day, and turned even warmer as we stood in the sun waiting in line to enter the boat. Could feel myself wilting, and the jacket in my arms only added to the overall temperature... Hadn't been this hot since before the monsoon season in Singapore!
Got myself a seat in the second row, and waited for the rest of the passengers to embark. Was almost five o'clock by the time the boat finally unmoored from the pier. Which meant the entire afternoon had been spent getting to Paris and the boat, since we had congregated in school at 1.45 pm!



Once we set off, though, the experience more than made up for the minor hiccups along the way. The view was stunning, and we got to see Paris from its underbelly. Simply stood at the rail and gave in to my trigger-happy instincts. Didn't stop until it was almost time to get off.


Passed by many famous Parisian landmarks, such as the Eiffel Tower (that oh-so-phallic icon of Paris), the Louvre, the Bastille, Notre Dame, and even a miniature Statue of Liberty! The last, and the Eiffel Tower, were the ones that got the other passengers' cameras on the go too.


The people lining the river were the other (albeit unintended) highlight of the trip. Some were out for a leisurely picnic, but most were sunbathing. There was even an elderly lady who had simply taken her top off, pushed her bra straps down and was soaking in the sun on a deserted stretch of 'beach' (in my album, Boating on River Seine II). Guess cold/warmth is really all about perspectives. The sunbathers probably loved the balmy weather, while I was uncomfortably reminded of the not-so-beloved tropics I had just escaped from.


We also met lots of other watercraft, ranging from riverboat tours like ours (only with more frills) to themed cruises, restaurant boats (Maxim's was very prominent, luxurious, and even had a grand piano inside!) and what looked like private barges. Damn, wish I own one, and could sail down the River Seine... maybe all the way to the Nile... There was even one where a lady was kicking back on a deck chair, shielded by an enormous umbrella, sipping tea and tapping away on her keyboard. All alone! And on another part of the river, was a small boat named Popeye (above. It is also in my album: Boating on River Seine II)). Serious!



Maybe not very surprisingly, there are numerous bridges along the river. We hear many stories about French cuisine, French architecture, but very little about the criss-crossing arches connecting one part of Paris to the other. Well, I think there should be more. Each bridge had its own personality, and many of the older bridges had intricately carved details embossed on their surface - a detail that has been left out of the grand, inspiring but starkly impersonal architecture of today.

Friday, August 29, 2008

Rural rat goes to the supermarket

Finally saw my bunnies after almost a week of missing them. Luq had put the Eee-PC in front of them and set up a video chat via Skype so I could talk to them and see them at the same time.Must have really frightened Kell, cos he was all huddled up in his little house peeking out at me. Not sure if he was more afraid of the disembodied voice coming out from the square box, or if he associated the laptop with the shock he received yesterday (from chewing through the adapter wire) though. *Sigh*

Tanya was a little better. Was worried about her since Luq mentioned that there hadn't been a single peep out of her since I left - and she's normally vocal to the point where I've to shut her up by caressing her into silence. She behaved pretty normally, and actually came quite close to the screen when bribed with a milk and honey drop.

Wish I were there to hug them and remind them I still love them.

Went to Auchan, the supermarket at 3 Fontaine Cergy, the mall I discovered the other day, to cheer myself up. Maybe it's because I'm getting used to being in a small town, but gawked like a country bumpkin at just about every aisle I came to. Had somehow lost my comb along the way to the hostel (at least, the last time I saw it was before I left the plane), so hit the toiletries section to get a replacement.

Got sidetracked before I even saw a bristle. They had familiar shampoo brands!!! Pantene, L'Oreal, Sunsilk... the packaging looked different for some of these, but they were all there! (And to think I had lugged my full-sized Pantene conditioner all the way to Cergy Le Haut from Singapore. That's a really well-travelled bottle, man. Maybe I should send it back to the factory so it can teach the little bottles about the world =P )

Checked out the shower foams too, and got a nice bamboo and lime one from Fa that was actually PH-neutral. That is just something you can't find in Singapore. And believe me, I've tried!

When I finally tired of toiletries, I went grocery hunting. Had wanted to get green tea at the 'supermarket' in Cergy Le Haut, but the only green tea they had - Lipton Clear Green - came out yellow and tasted funny. Sort of minty, and definitely not the green tea I'm used to. Fresh foods were upstairs, so off I went. Started smelling something fishy on the travellator, and no wonder, the seafood section was right in front. Lobsters, prawns, mussels, scallops.... and even some unidentifiable white longish one-inch-thick strings of squid-like substance labelled in French. I could make myself a really nice meal from these.

Didn't feel like cooking, though, especially with two thick course catalogues in my bag, so took my goggling self elsewhere. It was a pretty well-equipped supermarket. The pastries looked ultra-delicious, and there was even this delicacy that looked like two huge choux pastry held together with strawberries and cream. For just 6-plus euros! I was really tempted by it, but wasn't sure how long it could keep... Figured I had better skip it before I gave myself a bellyache.

Had a brainwave for how to live well in France on a student's budget: keep packs of smoked salmon (for 2.50 euros), some cheese and lettuce/rocket in the fridge, wrap them in between two slices of freshly baked baguette or croissants, and voila! I've got to get that done over the weekend.The green tea was a little expensive, so I treated myself to Jasmine tea instead.

Gotta remind myself to ask Luq to send me some of that wonderful imported green tea we got from that Japanese restaurant in Suntec. It'd come in really handy for warming my insides on a cold evening.I digress. To demonstrate the breadth of the supermarket's offerings, there was even a halal pavilion dedicated to Ramadan goodies. Now, that's just about the last thing one would expect from a French supermarket.

But hey, surprises abound everywhere, don't they? And that's part of the reason why travelling broadens one's horizons, isn't it? I can feel my mind being stretched already...

Settling in...

It's amazing how a few days in any country can make anyone feel at home. I've already learnt how to:
1) Book my train ticket at the self-ticketing kiosks
2) Tell the correct train to take
3) Figure out the best ways to get to the town square, wearing heels and slippers (they require different routes, due to the steep slopes at the shortcut)
4) Get to campus without getting lost
5) Find the best-tasting pastries around
6) Survive on 2.5 euros per meal or less (although that requires a little scrimping and some creativity, since the school cafeteria doesn't seem to be fully open for business yet - at least, I've not seen any meals being offered for 2.50 euros)

Also done some grocery shopping, although the Lipton Clear Green Tea I bought yesterday tasted really funny, and didn't look green at all. =( Was pretty intrigued by a whole canister of instant lemon tea for 1.80 euros, though, as well as a tin of instant chocolate drink for 3-plus euros.

Hm... all that walking must also be good for my figure. The jeans which fit me perfectly all the way until I exited Charles de Gaulle Airport look a little baggy now. Quite sad, actually. That pair's my oldest pair of jeans, and are probably a decade old, dating from all the way back when Luq won a one-year free shopping spree at Giordano. Ah, those were good times.

Thursday, August 28, 2008

Getting lost is not a total loss


A really eventful day. Got my first-ever ride in the driver's compartment of a moving train. Serious! I was taking a photo of the train when the driver, Farid, came out and asked me what I was doing. Told him I was taking it for my blog, and he was really nice about it. Even invited me into the driver's cabin so I could see him in action. Cool! A pity it was only two stops before I reached my destination.

Got myself really lost after arriving at the train station, but since I wasn't bogged down by three 18-kilo deadweights, it was pretty fun.Wandered around a picturesque town square dotted with small cafes and tinier shops that sold pretty much everything from shoes and clothes to *gasp* Star Wars toys. No, I'm not joking. Almost couldn't believe my eyes, though, when I saw the shop window full of toys and other 'collectibles'. Luq would be over the moon.

Was still limping around on one unbuckled boot, though, and hadn't located the school yet, so decided to put off a visit till next time.Blundered next into a shopping mall that raised my acquisitive instincts. Looked at my poor flopping boot, and headed straight for the mall directory to look for a cobbler. It was all in French, but fortunately, spotted a familiar name. Mister Minit! Wow... That was a surprise.

Even more amazingly, there was another name that reminded me even more of home. Bata. I just had to check it out. Along the way, though, spotted this really nice pair of boots in another shop window. At 40 euros, it was also among the cheapest shoes I had seen in France yet.

Immediately dashed off an SMS to Luq, telling him that if my boots were irrepairable, I've just seen their replacement. One floor up was Bata. It really was 'buy-and-throw-away' Bata! Same signage, same corporate colours - even the placements looked similar. But with the price tags that I saw on their shoes, few can afford to toss them away after wearing once or twice. The cheapest pair of boots was around 70-plus euros! What a far cry from the Bata in Singapore! I mean, the pair on my feet at the moment was from there, and I paid only S$40 for it - less than a third the price of the cheapest shoes there! This Bata sure wasn't going to do any business with me.

Left to resume my hunt for Mister Minit. The cobbler couldn't speak English, so I resorted to putting the buckle on the counter, and putting the mistreated boot next to it. Cobbler shook his head, and muttered one of the few French words I know: 'Non, non." Looks like it's time for some new shoes. But really wondered whether it was wise to buy a pair in France. I know I needed something to walk around in, but it'd be way cheaper to simply get it shipped to me. *Sigh* Shelved my acquisitive streak for the time being, and left the mall to look for the school.

Ha. Hadn't found the school yet, but located the bank. Had put that off to a vague 'some other time', but since I was already there... The bank had all my details and everything, but would release a debit card only after I showed them an accreditation of residence from my hostel. O well, at least I didn't go away empty-handed. The nice lady at the counter gave me directions to school, which was actually within sight of the bank, had I simply walked past it and around the building.

Finally got my student ID and password, and now I can connect to the Net again. Hooray!

Wednesday, August 27, 2008

The odyssey

19 40 hours Paris Time

Feels like I've gone one full circle. After becoming habituated to having Luq in bed or at least somewhere in the house while I go off to dreamland, I'm going to have to get used to sleeping alone, for a few months at least.

An anti-climatic (and somewhat depressing) end to a hectic day. I've hopped halfway across the world, landed briefly in one country and crossed yet another border all before 12 o'clock local time. And considering that the dorm is only supposed to be an hour's journey (by bus, which was the fast way) from the airport, one would assume that I'd be able to put all my stuff down and be showered before I start feeling like a sewer rat.

Just goes to show that journalism rule No. 1 still rules (and rues) my life: never assume anything. The retrieval of my delayed luggage sparked off what felt like an odyessey way before I even saw anything that looked remotely like my dorm. Deciding between the bus and train proved a Skylla and Charydbis dilemma.

I opted for the faster, more direct bus, but looking for bus 95-18 from Roissypole was not all that easy. From the map, it looked straightforward enough. Take the bus from Terminal 2D, gate 11. Walked to Terminal 2D from 2A, and sure enough, there are buses - just not the specific one that I wanted.

A very helpful young French guy who tried to interview me for a survey, but ironically was questioned by me instead, tried to help me locate my bus, which turned out to be at a different terminal. He wasn't too sure himself, though, so I ended up trundling my bags off to the information counter. Official there didn't speak English, so I resorted to showing the map on my print-out detailing instructions on how to get to the dorm. Told to take the airport train to Terminal One. Which, of course, entailed yet another walk, since I had to travel all the way to 2F, which was, not surprisingly, at the end of the terminal. Helpful French guy was really nice though. He caught up with me and tried to make sure that I did know where I was going. In fact, he had even checked and said I could take a bus there, but I decided to trust the guy at the information counter instead. Directions were in French and English, so no problems there, although my luggage got terribly scratched from the jagged edges of the escalators.

One flight of escalators and what seemed like an interminable walk later, I arrived at the bus interchange. Found my bus, but it arrives at different times everyday! Couldn't read the guide, so stood at the waiting bay (there weren't any seats) trying to keep a look-out for the bus. Must have missed the earlier bus, as other buses kept coming and going while the one I needed refused obstinately to arrive. Started getting worried after half an hour or so, as I was apparently the only one waiting for this bus!

Other passengers happily boarded the other buses arriving at my platform, and more than a few times, I was left all alone. Noticed a road sweeper clearing the leaves nearby shooting me funny looks each time the platform cleared with me holding court in solitary splendour. After the fourth or fifth time this happened, I was really worried.

Dragged my tattered dignity and all my belongings back to the airport, telling myself that I'd throw in the towel and take the train instead, even if the journey time were longer. It was only about two-plus, so I figured I'd have plenty of time to check in at my hostel before the officials closed up shop at 18 30 hours.

Noticed the bus information office right before I entered the airport, so decided to give it one more shot. By dint of sign language and my crumpled print-out, managed to let the non-English-speaking lady at the counter what I wanted. Next bus would arrive, luckily, about 20 minutes later, at 15 00 hours. So back to the platform I went. Decided to cut straight through to the platform, instead of going the smooth, circuitous route I had taken, so had to carry all my bags up and down platforms instead of roll one around behind me.

Another long wait, and during that time, passengers for my bus trickled in. They must have, cos when the bus finally motored in, there was a crowd waiting to get on. Got a pleasant surprise when I boarded. I was ready with the seven euros which my guide had designated as the fare, but the bus driver charged me 1.60 euros, and even gave me a receipt for it!

Loved the bus ride. Saw lots of greenery, and beautiful fields of flowers. After looking at the view during the journey to Cergy Prefecture, I really wonder how American and European visitors can marvel at how green Singapore is. France is so much greener and immeasurably more tranquil! I really wouldn't mind setting down roots in this wonderfully lovely country.

Getting off at the terminus jolted me back to reality. Had to find a way to get to Cergy Le Haut from Cergy Prefecture. So back to information. The train was the best, the (once-again) non-English speaking lady told me after I whipped out my much-creased, trusty map for the umpteenth time.

Bought a train ticket, and surprise surprise, boarded the wrong train. Luckily paranoid me discovered it as soon as it reached the next stop, so got off, lugged the luggage off the train, across the platform, up the lift, across a bridge, down another lift and onto the platform on the other side. Next train was, thankfully, the right one.

The hostel was supposed to be a three-minute walk away from the train station, but in which direction? My map didn't give any details, and there weren't any other maps indicating the hostel by name. No cabs around either. Back to the information counter, but they spoke no English. A nice old lady indicated that I was at the right stop, and directed me to one end of the terminal.

Wandered around the town centre for about half an hour or so, but couldn't find anything that looked like my hostel. Mostly private apartments and construction work. Tried to ask my way around again, but only managed to find an English-speaking lady after stopping about ten others. She told me to follow the road, and turn right, as she wasn't too sure where my hostel was, but only knew its general vicinity.

By then, I was pretty much running on exhuast fumes. Hadn't slept much during the flight, still jetlagged - and there I was pushing my bags down one slope and up another along the road. Had put my laptop bag on top of my luggage, and was lugging my carry-on by hand. I'm surprised all the harsh surfaces didn't ruin my wheels, but I guess that means I should buy only Satchi luggage next time. (I'm sure there'll be other next tijmes when I'm in another weight-losing situation like this.) Still, there were more than a couple of instances when I had to carry everything myself.

That was when my luggage ripped my shoe buckle off. Right in the middle of the road. Must have been so tired that I wasn't watching where I was putting my stuff. Grabbed the buckle, stuffed it into my bag, and limped the rest of the way with a loosened boot, praying that I wouldn't twist an ankle in addition to all my other troubles.Almost every step of the way, I was cursing myself from dissuading Luq, my husband, from coming with me.

First, I've not been to the bathroom since the flight to Heathrow an eternity ago - travelling alone means no helpful companion(s) to look after luggage while one answers the call of nature. Second, my luggage was heavy!! Also cursed myself from getting that carry-on last minute, which temptingly invited me to fill it with a full-size conditioner bottle and other odds and ends (if I had found a rubbish bin along the way, you can bet that my luggage would be a few bottles lighter). Had walked quite a distance before discerning a building that looked familiar. There were no signs on it, though (from where I could see), and would have turned back but for that faint spark of hope.

On and on I went. The only entrance I found was a fire escape door. Crud. Had to go around the building... By then, had almost given up hope. Luckily ran into two teenagers, who spoke English (yes! yes!) and clarified that yes, I had almost reached my goal. They were Mexican exchange students who had arrived two hours earlier, and very thankfully allowed me to go in with them instead of backtrack to the main entrance.

Got in, collected my keys, but that was not the end of it. The hostel official was probably flustered by a long day of meeting international students. There were two other students queuing behind me by the time I was done with the whole lengthy procedure of verifying identity, purchasing residential insurance, filling in forms, etc. She vaguely gestured at a staircase after passing me my keys, and there I went. Up three flights of stairs, juggling three bags all the way. Travelled along one darkened hallway, and discovered a lift - which only brought me to the fourth floor. Well enough. One level less of lugging is still a plus. The fifth floor opened into a gym. A very empty gym filled with all manner of equipment but no humanoids. By then, I can't say I was all that surprised.

Down one flight of stairs and the lift I went again. This time, I was directed to a different wing of the building, which luckily had a lift in plain sight. It stopped at the fourth floor, though, and I had to travel through two hallways before finding a stairway that led to my floor. By then, I must have seemed like a drunken sailor, almost staggering with every step. At my door finally!!

Tossed all my bags down, reached for my laptop, but there was no internet connection. Down I went again, to be told that I can only access the internet with my student ID, which was only available at the campus two train stations away.Wanted to get on skype to start calling Luq, but my odyssey had lasted almost six hours. There was no way I could have made it to school before 17 00 hours, so had to content myself with SMS-ing. Couldn't even make a long-distance call as I got a funny French announcement when I entered his number.

Anyway, 'home' at last, minus some skin off my knuckle and a buckle off my boot, but at least I didn't get robbed, raped and left in a ditch like my mum had predicted. I guess at least one doomsayer was proved wrong today.

In transit

12 00 Paris Time

Whew. What a rush trying to catch my connection on time. An hour in between two different flights might have been too ambitious even for me. Spent the entire time rushing from one terminal to another aboard their shuttle buses. Didn't even have time to do some shopping, although I did take my time to ogle the more interesting items on sale. Burberry had really nice boots, but I'm digressing here.

Got to my departure hall on time, but everyone was just sitting around after that. Took some photos, but was a little bored. Since the gate was still not open, decided to grab a sandwich at Pret a Manger, which was right beside the waiting area. All the sandwiches looked good, but picked up a wild crayfish sandwich with rocket salad and lime mayo for 2.99 euros. Yum...

Gate opened for boarding as I was paying, so had no time to devour it. Brought it onto the plane. Didn't realise how famished I really was until I started eating. Gobbled it all down in between taking off and the snack served in-flight. Had an orange juice, but passed on the hotdog, which was packed with some bacon. Noticed the passenger beside me took out all hers and laid it neatly back on the packaging. Had some orange juice, though.

This time, I was on the aisle so I could crane my neck and look out the windows. Paris looks really neat by air, all regular squares and rectangles. Still, wouldn't recommend anyone take this flight. Seats were small and cramped, and the plane smelled of old plastic. Got a headache just from breathing in the recycled air, but thankfully it was a short 1.5 hour flight. Was relieved to get off, but one of my two bags was delayed. They offered to mail it to me, but I'm waiting for it, since it's just an hour.

Off to France!

07 25 hrs London time

Finally got off the plane after a butt-punishing 14-odd hours. The flight wasn't too bad, actually. Got a complimentary upgrade to Premium Economy courtesy of Qantas Airlines, and I have to admit, these seats are way more comfortable than the ones I had actually paid for: i.e. economy. A new class of seats offered by Qantas, Premium Economy seems to be their way of placating customers who don't wish/can't afford to pay Business/First Class prices, but wouldn't mind spending a little more for just a tad more comfort. As promised, the seats had more leg room than Economy seats - a luxury that might be said to be wasted on my short girth. Couldn't budge my leg rest, so ended up sliding down the seat and pulling myself back up for most of the night.

Think I might have carpet burn from all that friction, but I guess that's not the usual flight hazard.And if I needed compensation for the extremely slight discomfort which might have been incurred just about anywhere else, really, the yummilicious flight attendants more than made up for it (fine, I'm exaggerating). The air stewardesses are OK, but Qantas (at least on the Singapore-London route) has some of the best-looking air stewards around. Real eye candy for the ladies.

Served supper about two hours into the flight. Chose fish over beef, and got breaded fish with hor fun, which I had to eat with a plastic knife and fork. Well, there's always a first time for everything. The food right at the top was pretty good, but everything below mid-level was plasticky and chewy. The hor fun was hard at the edges. Was seated in the middle of the plane, the second of four in a row. Totally hemmed in, so had to disturb my fellow passenger on the aisle each time I went to the bathroom. Was hoping for a view of the night sky, but mine was the red-eye, and every passenger obediently closed the shutters for the duration of the flight.

Sigh.Couldn't really sleep. Was quite restless. Read, tried to sleep, woke up... The sequence kept repeating itself. Two hours before landing, I decided to check out the in-flight entertainment system. Pretty cool. Relatively big screen which you pull out from your handle bar. Watched Ironman.Was served a breakfast of omelette with mushrooms shortly after. Really hungry by then, since I didn't have much the day before. Tucked into my food with gusto, but lost all appetite after discovering that what I had taken for some sort of soggy bread was actually some unidentied bacon. Ew.

Landing was quite smooth, but Heathrow is HUGE!